The other day I read a thread in another forum, why a better power supply on a turntable can have a positive effect on the sound of the turntable.
This inspired me to try a better power cord on my Rega P9 PSU.
Initially I used a standard power cord into a standard multi-outlet power strip into a standard socket-outlet.
Yesterday evening I connected the P9 PSU with a high quality power cord into a high quality multi-outlet power strip into a Furutech socket-outlet (same as the rest of my black boxes).
I felt there were subtile improvements: The sound seemed slightly bigger and more authoritative, I felt I had more fun listening to the music.
Or maybe I just imagined the improvements?
Not absolutely sure, but for now I will keep the better power cord connected to the P9 PSU.
Anybody else tried better power cords with a turntable PSU? Curious to hear about your experiences
Hi, no I am afraid you are not completely mad years ago I ran some tests of power cords on my Lingo 1. Despite It was by far one of the most unpleasant hifi tests to do I was able to detect subtle differences.
My turntable uses a wall wart, but Clearaudio makes a rather expensive āSmart Powerā 24V battery-based DC power supply upgrade. Itās not on my radar.
I bought 2 of Regaās reference mains cables (the Isis CDP came supplied with one) for my P9 PSU and the IOS phono stage. I canāt say there was any real difference but they looked far better quality and I felt the boxes should have something decent connecting them up. They werenāt Powerline money so in the context of what the system cost, It just felt the right thing to do.
If the differences are only subtle ā¦ is it really worth all the effort and cost?
Furthermore, the mains cables from the consumer unit/fuse box in the house are fixed and will always be bog standard electrical wiring. Certainly not some āawesomeā gold plated, super treated fantastical cabling.
If you could by-pass the need for a wall socket, plug and mains lead to your hifi equipment and directly wire everything into the mains ā¦ you would be connecting to bog standard electric wiring.
As such, how can adding some kind of esoteric cable and wall socket for the last metre or so, possibly āimproveāā all that existing bog standard wiring in the walls (which canāt be changed)?
The analogy I would draw, is where we accept that an amplifier and speaker cannot improve the original signal and information, so the source is always first. In this case, the house wiring is the source ā¦ so a flashy mains lead canāt possibly improve the mains electrical supply!
Sorry to sound dismissive, but it doesnāt seem logical and any electrician (which I am not) would probably say that it will make absolutely no difference.
I do, however, accept that a separate spur and consumer unit for the hifi does make a difference ā¦ by avoiding any pops/clicks and noises with refrigerators switching etc; if on the same circuit.
Iām sure that musicians and recording studios donāt use special wires to get the best sound. If the wires made a big difference, then they would use them on their kit.
Happy to be educated as to the science and logic behind this apparent āsnake oilā
Iāve a complete opposite experience. A Powerline made a nice improvement on my Lingo 2 in that it stayed. What a surprise! I was expecting NO difference.
Your reasoning is correct and I agree on main principles. And that is why before anything I had my power lines modified by an electrician. From the counter/fuse box I had three 4mm cables installed up to the listening room ending in 2 wall sockets. A dedicated line with all the mandatory safety requirements. This made a clear difference and also made possible to focus on the last 2 meters.
A Naim Powline on my Armeggedon/LP12 brings pretty much the same improvement it gives to any Naim box i.e. a cleaner more authorative and realistic sound.
The first time my dealer suggested a Power Line I was very skeptical, but after auditioning in my system (on a Hicap I think) I was convinced immediately. Wish I wasnāt, would have saved a lot of money
Next time I was really skeptical was when my dealer suggested a Furutech outlet. Again the proof was in the listening.
Maybe the Powerlines match the standard of the wiring used throughout the house, leading from the fuse box, whereas the standard power cables (kettle leads) are actually below the standard of the wiring and have a detrimental effect.
Perhaps the Powerlines effectively āmimickā the āideaā of wiring equipment direct to the mains (without sockets and leads) ā¦ who knows.
Any electrical engineers out there who can explain this phenomenon?
The Powerline is less about the cable (excellent though it is, but not the main story here) and more about much improved connectors. The grip off the jaws in the IEC is much stronger than other connectors - it is at the maximum permitted - and this allows a better connection here. Similarly, the pins in the mains plug have a very small amount of lateral movement built into them so they can better align themselves with the contacts in the socket. Add to this that both plugs are effectively decoupled to avoid feeding unwanted vibrations into the equipment and you have the Powerline - much more than just a fancy lead.
No Lindsay, no. You canāt get away with making statements like this unless you spill the beans on the background and what combinations you tried! Otherwise, Iāll have to start looking into it for our own Vertere power supply. It was bad enough going for the Pulse R cable between the motor controller and the deck. Now we have to look at the mains power chord as well?
The Chord Sarum T mains cable is a whopping Ā£1,900 in the UK. Cough.
years ago I ran some tests of power cords on my Lingo 1. Despite It was by far one of the most unpleasant hifi tests to do I was able to detect subtle differences.
