Jumper cable choices

In case it’s of interest, here’s the back of my system.

252 and SC are on the top of the racks.

None the cables touch each other, except temporarily near the plug extension socket on the floor and the right end.

The Burndy and snaic do not quite touch each other. They are lightly held close by one small ring of pipe lagging.

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Thanks. In the second pic, on the SC, the snaic is on top and crosses on the right of and then under the burndy. Don’t they touch there? Looks like it. This is the same as I did it, except that I made sure that they touch there because there are so many posts on the forum saying to run them in parallel (well what else really, the plugs are where they are), close but not touching, except touching in one point. And as the plugs are above each other on the SC side, this seems the natural place for this one point.

They almost touch there, but not quite.

Is it that important really? As I understand it Burndy only carry DC?

It’s both analogue (music signal) and DC for the analogue stages in the NAC 252. The SNAIC carries DC for the digital circuits.

Who knows if it is important :slight_smile: But on 252 & SC, the signal goes through the burndy.

There is conflicting info on what is best. Richard says close but no touch, others who usually know say touch in one point only, some dealers even wrap them once …
There is discussion and pics here (link): Cable dressing guide for Naim
and elsewhere if you search for “burndy snaic touch”

I suppose I can easily try no touch vs one point as it’s just a matter of moving the snaic a bit (compare JimDog’s pics above, mine is the same except his nearly touch but don’t, and mine do)

I’m quite happy with the Nordost jumper cables.

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Question: What is the official reasoning for buying 1000 euro jumper cables if you cannot change the cables from the terminal to the chassis inside the speaker?

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The consensus in the greater audiophile world is to use the same brand and model of speaker cable for jumpers. At least use the same brand . The obvious idea is to keep the sonic signatures the same.

Hi, @opus. May I ask what the veneer is on your ProAcs? It’s gorgeous.

I asked Proac if they designed/tested the Tab 10 Sig with simply the silver jumper bars and the answer was yes. Single and bi-amplified.

I’ve gone back to this for simplicity and ‘as the maker intended’ sound.

G

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Thanks. They are Ebony.

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And my question was why the 10 cm cable between LF and HF terminals on the outside is said to matter, but the sonic signature difference of the 1 meter of cable on the inside apparently does not.

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The logic of using the same wire for the leads and the jumpers is so that both sets of terminals get their signal with wire that has the same characteristics and therefore the same sound. Of course, the jumpers are really short so the the scope for them to change the sound must be limited.

The wire inside the speaker doesn’t matter - it’s about keeping the connections between the amplifier and the speaker consistent.

That’s my logic anyway.

But certainly between the amp and the speaker chassis, not the speaker terminals. Which they are not and can’t be unless you could change the cable inside.

Not that it matters with A5 and or course I used A5 jumpers (as per photos above), but if I were to consider SL jumpers or the like, the completely different cable inside - having different lengths for each terminal - would bother me, and surely I am not the first.

Did anyone go as far as replacing the inside cables?

Well the internal wiring does matter. What you hear from any speaker is the designers choice of All the parts. It’s certainly possible to open up a speaker and change the internal wiring, but who knows how it would sound. You could also build your own speakers and play with all kinds of parts swapping

If cables matter, then of course those on the inside do too, but one wonders about the rationalization for buying expensive jumpers but leaving the inside the same.

Changing the internal wiring will usually be difficult with the internal compartments, drill hole sizes, etc. It’s also a bit surprising that apparently no speaker manufacturer offers the option or designs for easy exchange.

I would play with internal cables particularly if you ever want to sell/trade in the speakers.

Who would know if you did?

I don’t think there is an official reasoning for this. It’s just a personal decision by the user. If it’s too difficult or complicated, one can choose to buy speakers which come in a single pair of binding post instead or 2 (bi-wireable) pairs of terminals.