It would look better with a Naim / Class A service 
2 Likes
The NAC 42 was my first Naim pre amp - matched with a NAP110… 
I now have a late-ish 72 as my shoebox, ‘indulgence’ or ‘spare’ pre amp…
ust because… 
4 Likes
Was that mine once upon a time Bandit or one of your many others?
Tempted by the Nait 50?
1 Like
Yes, it was yours. I’s also tempted by the Nait 50 but its price is ridiculous expensive where I live.
Same here - still have a lonely 42 on „offline-display“.
No soulmate yet, but no room him set it up it either.
72 also as spare … collecting boxes 
#
7 Likes
Mine has just arrived in the post!
The black fascia is a bit grubby when close up. What do people use the freshen it up? I have the usual glass cleaner to hand but I thought I might find some advice from cb old hands…
4 Likes
I just use a warm damp cloth with a touch of washing up liquid in it. Then a tea towel to dry it.
1 Like
Looks to be in better nick than Naim’s demo 50 at Munich.
It looks great. Be careful when loosening off the little grub screws inside the tractor wheel knobs. Don’t lose the inserts and don’t over-tighten when you put them back as the plastic will be fairly brittle by now and easily damaged.
1 Like
Thanks Richard. Will do.
Take the opportunity to add some extra reinforcement to the rather weak areas that are prone to failure, especially after many years of aging.
You could fill the voids with epoxy.
The shafts are round so to tighten the knob enough enough to grip, it is likely the old plastic will crack and fail, so the reinforcement is worth the effort. The extra material to tighten against makes a big difference, though care is still needed to avoid over tightening.
2 Likes
An SMP glue I would probably use.
But why just those two voids?
Because it is these voids that react to the load opposing the grub screw.
Of course you could fill the whole of the back, but this may be over-kill, unless the knob is very brittle and aged (form, for example, uv sunshine), and in danger of disintegration.
There is a danger that the plastic holding the small square nut the grub screw sits in will fail, but of course, filling this void will stop you getting to the grub screw.
Does the SMP glue set solid?
The requirement is to have something solid in the voids; a plastic material will allow the collar round the shaft to crack where there is movement into a plastic material.
No, it doesn’t. Precisely why I would use it.
It sticks to pretty much anything. Can be removed (with difficulty) if needed. Stays elastic. The original material can still move if needed (probably not an issue in the case of a plastic knob).
It will probably be solid enough for the purpose, but if not it will still keep things together. The grub screw will work. Since Naim believe vibration of electronics is a thing, it will provide damping.
1 Like
I was recently made aware of this little bundle of goodness;
‘What is it?’ I hear you ask… well, it’s a lamp puller for CB NAP switches. Works like a charm, for 4.5-5.5mm lamps:
Makes getting them out a cinch. You just need to work it in by rotating it if you’re extracting 5.5mm lamps (they’re a snug fit).
1 Like
I try to be delicate with long-nose pliers. 
1 Like
Ah. Looks like my external link has been deleted… it’s available on Farnell’s website: just search for ‘LED Lamp Puller’…