This is as the racks are at present - have used pale cherry coming to replace the maple, for neatness/uniformity, though I have actually come to quite like the top right corner being a contrasting colour
It is sort of arty
This is as the racks are at present - have used pale cherry coming to replace the maple, for neatness/uniformity, though I have actually come to quite like the top right corner being a contrasting colour
It is sort of arty
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Wow! Congratulations. I think you’ll enjoy it to be honest. I was skeptical coming from an el-cheapo AV stand. Fraim just made things fall into place if that makes sense. Subtle but just right… Hard to explain actually.
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Hi marcusman,
yes i’m really looking forward to receiving Fraim and setting it all up. I’m also banking on a performance uplift as well, as (for me), it’s quite a financial outlay on something that is non-electronic. 
Going through this thread however gives me great comfort in that most folks are happy with their Fraim purchases, from a performance perspective.
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Don’t forget to enjoy building it too. It’s half the fun 
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I thought I lost one of those ball-bearings! They don’t stop rolling… Half the fun…
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Not covered: build a level, place the relevant black box on it and add all the electrical connections before doing the next shelf up. Otherwise it’s a struggle.
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This, most definitely. 
And make sure you get speaker cable the right (wrong?) way round …
When it’s all built there’s a minimum two grand’s worth of shelving and at least twice that in black box value sitting in front of you; it needs to look the part, which means even and level. Levelling is covered in the guide, making it even is easy.
Line the boxes up by eye on the front edge of the glass or just behind, similarly line up the glass just behind the front edge of the shelf. The relative fore & aft position of both box on glass and glass on bearings can make a difference to SQ [apparently], but this should be the start point.
Lining up L to R between the edges is easy – slide a suitable finger out of index, fore, little, ring or indeed thumb into each side and wiggle it all about till you can feel that the gaps to edge & leg are equal. Easier than using a tape measure, as long as your fingers are symmetrical (unlike two of mine…)
Be prepared to take it all apart every few months to clean, retighten and reseat everything and to remake electrical connections.
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That’s the way I did mine the first time I built it and have done since. It just seemed so logical do it that way.
Just be really careful when setting each level down.
I misjudged this once with my old tripod stand and caught the top of my Creek tuner case with one of the spikes.
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Remember the crucial tap of the glass for the perfect “ring”
Hey man How are you? I have not read you here for a long time … I fondly remember your discussion of the ND5xs2 in which I participated. I hope you are well … Hello.
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About 2 years ago I decided to break down a 6 high Fraim into a 2 x 3 brains v brawn rig and I’ve never regretted it. Fraim is incredibly good and I’ve found it to be rock solid when built correctly. Good luck in your quest.
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To me, a Fraim looks incredible, but beyond the budget of my system.
I am interested to know, for anyone with a rational thought, why a Fraim set up is so expensive for each part (I would struggle to find a more expensive rack)?
Epic level R&D!!
Because people will pay - presumably because to them it is justified…
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Probably because, balls apart, it uses bespoke parts and is made in relatively very small volumes.
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Many more expensive racks out there! 
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