Thx Dan
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Thatās all that matters.
I donāt know should I start a new topic or you can answer me here but I have a question about active system that Iāve just read in FAQ section?
Are Snaxo line made exclusively to Naim speakers or it can be used for various different speakers?
If it can, how we connect 3 amps to 3-way system if it only has bi-wire/amp posts? Or we use only what is available - so we take snaxo 242 instead?
SNAXOs are by default for Naim speakers, but can be used (with some level adjustments) with some others. For example the SNAXO 242 can be used with some other 2 way speakers such as Linn and ARC. Naim could also make a SNAXO 362 for Linn Isobariks. There are other active speakers for which Naim has made crossovers (ARC, Audiovector, and Kudos), they usually just needed the crossover frequency points for any custom configuration.
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Does these rules apply to my Naim Nova?
Mike
The all-in-ones should be more tolerant of different lengths and cable types, but I would still avoid anything overly capacitive or of very low inductance.
Can you explain us why technically the all in one and naitās are more tolerant ?
Thanks 
See my post above. They are designed a little bit differently to the classic power amps and purposely made more tolerant.
My understanding is that if an amp has no inductor in the output stage, it can use the inductance of the speaker cable instead. So the amp either needs the correct type and length of speaker cable, or it doesnāt, and the information in the various Naim manuals would seem to reflect that. The separate power amp manuals say you need 3.5m of NACA5 or more. The Uniti and Nait manuals do not.
Perhaps itās actually not as simple as that, but I have never seen an explanation that suggests it is less clear cut.
Ok so might be worth me trying some NAC A5 cable in stead of my cord Rumour. Is 3.5 MTR the minimum as speakers are either side of the unit wear the Nova is so will be to much cable so is it ok to coil it up?
Mike
Donāt coil it, each turn (circle) adds inductance, especially bad if one side is coiled & the other side not, that makes the channels unbalanced.
The correct way is to fold it.
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Iāve just bought some new NACA5 and have made it up with Naim plugs, lots of cursing later itās up and running on my SN3. What should I expect, if anything, in terms of burning in period? It seems a little more forward then my previous Audioquest cable
When you get it all right - perfect soldering, SA8 plugs, proper movement within the plug housing - NACA5 is wonderful but it does take ages to fully burn in. Itāll sound pretty good after a few weeks but it can take 6 months or more of proper play before the sound really blooms and you get real depth and focus. Iām convinced this is one reason why some donāt like it; itās judged too early before itās had a chance to really shine.
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Ok thanks Richard, Iāll stick with it! Iām fairly handy making up cables and soldering etc but I found this quite tricky, Iām not 100% happy so will probably redo, the bare cable is such a tight fit in the slot itās difficult to get the solder to run right down through it without over heating it and then melting the insulation, Iām using an 80w iron. Will experiment further until I get it right
I use a 100w & found that is OK but my 50w isnāt.
Its temp controlled & I set it at 325āC for 60/40 multicore with joints such as banana pins. I insert the pins in a purpose made wood holder, a 4mm hole drilled in a bit of softwood, itās ideal (best) for a firm/steady hold on the pin & it retains a lot of the heat. A wide chisel tip profile is ideal to push the NACA5 cable into the pin slot.
I use a Butane torch.
Scarey, who needs temperature control??
Seriously though, Iāve used butane & even oxy/acetylene when pushed in emergency/field situations. The nice thing about an iron with big wattage & temperature control is a fast made joint & the insulation is not at much risk of damage.
It works great for me. I get a nice small blue flame and it heats the cable and pin up quickly. My dealer taught me that trick.
Thanks Mike, Iām using a similar setup with some timber and 4mm holes, Iām also squishing the copper slightly with a pliers to help insertion. I think the 80w is ok, thereās plenty of heat it seems its just getting the solder to flow all the way through is my difficulty, I might try pre tinning and see does that help
Donāt pre-tin - youāll never get the copper to fit neatly in the plug slot. Shape the copper strands by compressing with pliers and it should fit in.
Also, worth using the same type of solder that Naim use - Multicore Crystal 505 - or similar.
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