Adding an extra level enables you to get space between the big power supplies and the sensitive head units, so it’s not just about getting the burndies off the floor. The Burndy between the 555 and 272 is more sensitive than those between the two parts of the 300. They are different sorts of burndies - one being the shiny plastic covered one and the other being braided, so maybe that has something to do with it.
The wires that are really sensitive in my system are the two din to XLR SL leads, and I can just manage to keep them from touching anything.
On balance I’d say that the cost of the extra Fraim level is worthwhile. People will happily spend the same on a PowerLine lead so it’s not that much really, especially if you can get the level used, which is what I did. With the supplies and head units separated and all the wires dressed optimally you get a more open natural sound and the music seems to flow better, it simply sounds more relaxed and engaging.
Whether you can be bothered depends on how keen you are on getting the best from what you have. I rather like making the effort to squeeze the last drop of potential from the system. Others are happy with what can be achieved by a much more relaxed approach to setup.
I used a non-dr 300 with my SL2s passive for a few months - huge improvement over serviced olive 250. Then went active non-dr but took the opportunity to service and dr the 300s a year ago before the price went up and when it was time for them to be serviced it appeared a bit daft not to have them dr’d too. I also changed other things at the same time so cannot isolate the dr effect though my dealer (Geoff at Acoustica) was very insistent it would be a big improvement. Anyway, I am pretty sure the SL2s will love the 300 - mine did
If you like what a 300 does and how it does it, you likely won’t settle for a 250. We stuck to much cheaper electronics rather than go 250 as a stepping stone. It just didn’t work for us. If I can compare it to a photograph, the colour would be a bit too saturated. On closer inspection the focus would just a bit off. And the top of the head and the feet of the subject would be a bit over cropped.
We ran a 300 pre DR for many happy years before going 500. We added the 500 to our 552 because the 500 is so amazing and we had the means. We didn’t dislike the 300 at all. It was just a right place, right time thing. The 300 is a remarkably natural, unforced, neutral sounding amp which can do subtle, pile driver and everything in between with poise and realism. It will easily partner a 552. It’s good enough.
Later, when our 500 went back to Naim for work, our dealer kindly lent us a 250DR. After about two weeks I’d stopped listening to music in the lounge. I never seemed to have the time, or always had something else more pressing to do. The reason was because the 250DR was behaving pretty much how the non DR version did. But more so.
If you like the 250 (most people seem to) you will love the extra 250ness that the DR brings. I never did and I still don’t. So I’m obviously biased - which you should take into account.
I bought the 300 non dr over the 250DR. Did a A-B comparison.
Don’t know if i would like a DR version. It doesn’t matter for me, i can’t Afford a DR upgrade. I’am happy with it and paid e little few more then a 250DR.
Whenever these 300 threads come round I get all upgradey. I must stop reading them because, even non DR, three 300s would be a big dent in the savings.
Congratulations. You’re right to be anxious - the 300, DR or not, is a great amp. I’ve been using one for years, and had it recapped and DR’d last year, but even in its non-DR configuration it is a major step above a 250 as others have pointed out.
If getting a Fraim level, just to put some distance between components sitting on shelves above and below, just use a Fraimlite for the empty level and save some money.
I use Fraimlite as top shelves for both stacks and it looks perfectly well-matched to me. In fact, I wouldn’t want the glass on top, since I put things on it and the glass never stays in place.
