NDS remote not working after new screen fitted by Naim

Well, I tried it and it gave me control of the 252 - yay! Unfortunately, it now won’t control the NDS. So I now have two remotes for the 252 and none for the NDS - boo! Anyone know how to get the blasted thing to control both the 252 and the NDS? I know it can do it, as it did it before it went to Salisbury. Failing that, anyone know how to get it to control the NDS again, at least I will have a remote then!

Have just spotted this thread and am willing to put in my penny’s worth…

My hunch is that, whilst replacing the OLED display on the NDS, the small ribbon cable that links the combined logo/remote sensor to the front panel board has not been reconnected correctly and thus the sensor is not transferring the IR codes it receives across to the streamer.

Either that or the logo/remote sensor itself has failed and needs replacing.

Having undertaken “OC” logo replacements (NB there are three different versions btw) on various Naim products many times over the years, this is a simple enough job for any competent technician.

Just remember to fit the NDS’s suspension locking screws before turning the NDS upside down to access the outer sleeve’s Allen bolts!

Hope this helps.

Tony
Basically Sound

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Well this is completely different from the written instructions I still have from Naim a few years ago when these old streamers were current and different from what @NeilS has told us a few times here. So it will be interesting to hear whether it works for you.

I suspect that it’s a different way to get to the same outcome. If you do the key press during the streamer start up (while the splash screen is there), then the remote does know what code to use because it gets it from the streamer. Also the method I described has worked for me several times, including a few weeks ago.

Yes, I’m afraid our tech support agent has been misinformed. :face_with_peeking_eye:
Aux, i, Disp is the default IR system code (21), there is no “program mode”
Aux, i, 1 (2,3,4,etc.) are for different system codes (used to prevent unwanted crosstalk)
Pointing the remote at the unit (when perfoming the above) while the splash screen is showing will change the unit system code to match the remote.

Regards
Neil.

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Thanks all.

The solution suggested by support didn’t work. I suspect the IR receiver is indeed faulty. Naim agree and are taking it back and promise a priority repair.

Since doing the ‘reset’ sequence on the remote as suggested by Naim my 552 no longer responds to it either though. Sigh. I am sending the remote away with the NDS to ensure they get them working together. Hopefully it will work with the 552 as it did before when it comes back. I guess I could use the ‘slab’ R-com if I have to. My searches have failed to find another Narcom in any of my old boxes.

Bruce

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@BruceW might be worth reading this thread again

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Hi, thanks for your time in responding, appreciated.
Sorry to say, I’m still confused. Could you tell me the clear steps to to take to get the remote working with the 252 and the NDS? Assume stupidity on my part, the simpler, the better! Many thanks.

Switch the NDS on, while it’s showing “NDS” in big letters on the screen, press Aux, I & the Disp buttons on the remote simultaneously while pointing it at the unit.
You need to be quick, as you only have a few seconds!

Regards
Neil.

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Thanks, I recall that thread as I started it!

When I get everything back I’ll hopefully be able to get the remote working with both. It did before.

Bruce

The point is that the NDS remote doesn’t work with your 552. You had system automation set up and so you could control your 552 via your NDS. It was explained in your earlier thread (and yes I realise you started that thread).

Seems like the right result…? A Priority Fix.

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I don’t understand.

The remote I was using, wherever it originated from, worked with both NDS and 552 prior to the new screen fitment. They are not connected by a system automation cable. It didn’t work with the NDS afterwards but it did still work with the 552. I am not sure how that fits with the above; it appears the NDS wasn’t responding at all to the remote (as appears to be shown case via the setup screen) yet it still managed to control source and volume on the 552.

I’m confident that Naim will sort it as a priority.

Bruce

Well best I bow out of this discussion as I don’t have an NDS or a 552 personally. I’m sure it will get fixed anyway.

Bruce, this is all very odd. I’m 99% sure that the Uniti remote, which is what works the NDS, cannot control a separate preamp unless you have system automation set up. I’ve just scoured the manual and it says the same there. You are far more intelligent than me, but are you really really sure that you didn’t have a system automation cable in place? If you didn’t, I’m at a loss to understand how the NDS remote could operate your 552.

This is deja vu! I was told the same thing two years ago ‘can’t happen, you must of had system automation in place!’ Well, I didn’t and it did work both before it’s trip to HQ.
Nevermind. Thanks to @NeilS, I now have a remote for both. So that’s what I’ll do. Seems a shame that Naim these days can’t sort these things out, but hey ho. I agree with a previous poster, it is a special piece of kit and it’s got a new screen and had a service, so can’t really complain. Two remotes is very much a first world problem!

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Definitely no cable. I would notice that!

I dont think system automation was set up either. I couldn’t control the 552 volume from the app for example, only source etc.

It is all parcelled up now but here is a stock photo of the style of remote I had been using.

yep, same one here.

That is indeed a Uniti remote, as HH says.

I use an old green one (no idea what it’s technical name is) for the 252. Only issue is that the balance buttons are directly underneath the volume buttons. In the dark, listening to R3 over the NAT01, in trying to turn it up a bit, I find myself listening to one speaker only! Damn old age and sausage fingers!

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Every day is a school day!! You’ll note that I said I was 99% sure. The remote must have the necessary gubbins to allow it to work a separate preamp; it’s odd that the manual says you need system automation. Anyway, let’s hope Bruce’s gets sorted asap.

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