Show us your Sondek

Sexy plinth (oo-er missus). Sun-bleached fluted afromosia

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A small drop of lemon oil ( like that guitar one for fretboards) would bring out that grain beautifully, Kev.

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I will try it Steve…

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Wow, that doesn’t look like Afromosia (I believe that was the only finish available back in 1978 - teak look without the price).

Nice, is that a Solid Sounds plinth Kev?
Looks like mine:

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Well spotted! It is indeed a Solid Sounds support (the plinth is a 1987 Linn original) which is what i think you mean.

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Yes that’s what I meant :rofl::+1:

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Yep it’s definitely afromosia but the original lacquer flaked off years ago, so I simply waxed it to give some protection and this gives more contrast to the finish.

Hmmm…Wondering if a wax could be better for the grain contrast than lemon oil on my plinth…I have some somewhere ( Renaissance micro crystalline) & can’t remember if I’ve tried it on the Linn (used to use it with old fountain pens).

Wax certainly gives a great contrast on yours @Mr.Tibbs. Beautiful.

I used Renaissance micro crystalline wax on the outer rim of the platter of my LP12, after ‘cleaning’ off with T Cut the factory-applied lacquer and other marks such as fingerprints accumulated over the years. It’s gleaming now (which I really like, but others may not).

The Wenge plinth (from Solid Sounds) has had three or four coats of lemon oil, which feeds the wood and brings out the grain. Just apply it thinly, and leave at least 24 hours between applying the oil.

So the over-30-year old LP12 is looking better than ever!

stevie, for lacquered wood (and especially on highly polished aftermarket plinths (which are likely finished with multiple coats of cellulose lacquer) you’re probably best sticking with a wax polish. Lemon oil is meant for use on bare wood, like guitar fretboards etc. It feeds the wood as well as cleaning it, but obviously can’t work as intended on a lacquered surface.

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This looks roughly similar to my deck (oak plinth).

The oak noticeably darkens over time (only 6 years in my case).

Great looking LP12 - although I’m biased, I guess.

:slightly_smiling_face:

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Hi.Just got the Naim xs3 amp.Also have the Reflex m. How do you connect your phono stage to your amp? Thanks.

I use 5 pin DIN to phono leads to phono stage output, Linn LP12 to input of phono stage. If XS3 has phono input and built in phono stage then don’t use that input on amp. Use tape or a different input.

Naim make 5 pin DIN to phono leads as source cables.

Thanks @Mr.Tibbs, I didn’t know fretboards were, um, ‘raw’ wood.

As @Dan_M says, phono leads from your TT to the Reflex M, then either a RCA to RCA cable into one of the RCA line inputs on your XS3, or a RCA to DIN cable into one of the DIN line inputs on your XS3. I use the “tuner” input.

Naim do RCA to DIN and DIN to RCA, if you’re buying a Naim lead make sure it’s the correct orientation, there is a light band of some description at the source end which in your case is the Reflex phono stage. Picture below of my Hiline - you can see the white band denoting the source end.

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Thanks for your help. If I decide to use my phono stage as opposed to the amps built in phono would it be worth investing in an rca to din cable instead of using rca to rca line input on amp. Tried the amp phono stage yesterday.Very impressed. Now going to connect the Reflex M. Cheers

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Thanks a lot.

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The 5 pin din to 2 RCA cables are meant to be better than RCA to RCA. I have a Nait 3 for my son’s system and have had to buy 5pin din to 2 rca cables for his 3 sources: tape, turntable and CD player.

I have a 5 pin din to 2 RCA on my main system for the LP12 and it sounds great with Reflex M phonostage.

I haven’t used the phono boards on my Nac 52 as my cartridge isn’t compatible.