This is a bit of a duplicate post as I have posted on ‘show me your turntable’, but it felt appropriate to post it here too!
Original big red button model. It is actually labelled ‘export’ which I believe had something to do with sales figures in the early days of the LP 12? Maybe someone here who is more knowledgeable can clarify this.
It has always had the Hadcock 228 fitted and originally had an Ultimo 20A cartridge (which I still have), which later became Dynavevtor. Today it has a new Dynavector DV-20X2L fitted.
In due course I will upgrade elements to help the old girl along.
Hi Dal I totally agree with you about Lyric HiFi! Michael is so easy to get on with and is very helpful and knowledgable. The recent work they did on my LP12 and tone arm was excellent and for very reasonable cost. They also ( I must say Ross ) did a great job repairing my old mk1 Accustic Energy AE1 speakers. First class!
I think we should start a go fund me so @Richard.Dane can get a Karousel and Majik or Kore subchassis so he can pull his LP12 out of storage to see what it can do!
It was originally black but has been refinished at some point. The reason why I bought the LP12 was it had the gorgeous plinth and the lid looked new. Little did I know that the bearings were very iffy on the akito!
fordy
I have loved looking and reading about your LP12 projects and am lost in admiration.
I wouldn’t dare touch the working bits of my deck, I leave that entirely to David at SO York and it sounds great, but I would like to smarten up the appearance.
As my DIY skills are legendary (ie totally useless!) I was hoping you might give me some advice on touching up small scuffs and other cosmetic treatment for my 30 year old black ash plinth?
You just need a satin black acrylic paint and touch it in with a fine art brush. I use this one. Spray a bit into the lid and use very sparingly on the brush.
Usually if it’s just small areas to dot in you can get away with it. If the paint has worn along the edges then load the brush with a little bit more paint (but not too much) and run the brush along the edge very carefully. The original finish is a very satin, almost Matt look but if your plinth is old and has had household polish and even oils from your skin it will be a good bit shinier now meaning the match won’t be perfect but it’s good enough for small areas.
For anything more serious you have to rub it down and respray but try to avoid such drastic measure if you can. Always sand by hand on a block using the lightest grade paper you can get away with and work up to fine grades. If you use a power sander you’ll slip and round off corners or edges - not worth the risk. Don’t use a very gritty paper either as you’ll deep scratch the plinth and it can show in the paint. Start with 600 grit through to 2500, then a grey primer, then a couple of coats of acrylic. Even coats and not too many or you’ll lose the grain.
. Whoever removed the black finish did a cracking job
