Speaker jumpers

One down side of using Super Lumina cable diagonal is not possible because of the distance between the upper and lower terminals of the 808’s and the blocks near the banana plugs.

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:sweat_smile: 72 replies obsessing over jumpers.

You could put coat hanger wire between those terminals and you’re not going to hear a difference. It’s not going to make a difference whether you do it diagonally or not either. They’ll say anything to calm the audiophile nervosa.

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Guilty as charged :slight_smile:

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Can’t find my usual M&S coathangers. I’ll get the train in to the store tomorrow and pick one up.

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Well, that wasn’t what I was expecting. Just tried an A/B on square v. diagonal. In sound terms, not a huge difference to my ears… diagonal is maybe slightly preferable.

However, what’s very weird is that diagonal wiring has snapped the centre of the stereo image from being a good 10-15 degrees or so to the left of centre (which has been increasingly irritating me for a while) to being dead centre. Can’t explain it, but it’s now exactly where I want it!

Before anyone suggests that changing the connections has cleaned gunk off the plugs, I’d already given the jumpers a good clean before starting the A/B, so it’s not that.

Mark

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I was sure this had been done before ‘Diagonal’ Single-Wiring
This thread includes a diagram from Audioquest.
I know that Chord Company have also suggested it works, perhaps the fact that Alan Gibb worked at Linn is why they tried it.
I recall seeing it done with a pair of ARC speakers, possibly the 101?
I played about with it with a Trio amp and Eltax floor standers and the “snapping” into focus was as described.

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I use the supplied linking bars with the Tab 10 Sigs. This after a) Not being wholly satisfied with jumpers and b) Speaking with Proac about the development and testing of the ‘speakers.

I wire direct to the HF terminals.

G

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Hi Graeme,
You did “diagonally” connect speaker cables a couple of years ago looking back at old threads.
You mention that you have spoken to ProAc.
Being a ProAc owner too I’d be interested to hear what they said and if it was this that changed your current approach, if that’s okay.
Many thanks,

The T10S are developed and tested with the links in place, is the long and short of it. Single and bi-amplification is also used.

G

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I must be mad, I’ve had these speakers for almost 25 years and no one’s ever suggested this before. Off for breakfast with friends and will have a listen later today and see if there’s any difference.

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When I traded in my Naim Ovator S-400 for my ProAc D30RS speakers the dealer used my NAC 5A and did place one lead in the top and on in the opposite bottom. Once I had some time I dropped off my NAC 5A speaker cable and he soldered the bi-link.

Happy with the bi-link and would love to understand the science on why two cables would work better than four as designed by the manufacture.

Another of the great mysteries of Hi-Fi!

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Your dealer has done a tidy job on that too. My dealer is making a short piece of NACA5 that will replace the wire on my Hawks - basically threaded through the holes in the speaker pins. I can’t do that with the Superlumina on the Forests though, so that’s work in progress.

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Interestingly My hawks came with the regular wire pin on the Negative and a thicker regular stranded wire on the positive side same on both speakers…

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My amp is a dual mono balanced bridge design. The manufacturer is very very emphatic in saying the Ground or Black terminal is not a floating ground but an active negative . Im loath to do anything other than swap the cables from bottom to top and jumpers from top to bottom. But honestly the system is sounding so amazing with the new cables I’m not inclined to change anything!

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I bet the SL jumper price is ridiculous down there………it’s ridiculous here.

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I won’t be trying to find out with the new retailers, the pricing has gone crazy.

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Over a grand here😬

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It’d be $4K here

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You’re negative top and bottom should be swapped round for the diagonal wiring to work best. :thinking: :+1:t2:

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I experimented once with a big pair of B&Ws I had in briefly. I tried with the included metal strips against just using some hook up wire (RS56); I found them to sound way more “together” with the RS56 hook up links wires in place. The difference was extraordinary and far from subtle.