I must be mad, I’ve had these speakers for almost 25 years and no one’s ever suggested this before. Off for breakfast with friends and will have a listen later today and see if there’s any difference.
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When I traded in my Naim Ovator S-400 for my ProAc D30RS speakers the dealer used my NAC 5A and did place one lead in the top and on in the opposite bottom. Once I had some time I dropped off my NAC 5A speaker cable and he soldered the bi-link.
Happy with the bi-link and would love to understand the science on why two cables would work better than four as designed by the manufacture.
Another of the great mysteries of Hi-Fi!
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Your dealer has done a tidy job on that too. My dealer is making a short piece of NACA5 that will replace the wire on my Hawks - basically threaded through the holes in the speaker pins. I can’t do that with the Superlumina on the Forests though, so that’s work in progress.
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Interestingly My hawks came with the regular wire pin on the Negative and a thicker regular stranded wire on the positive side same on both speakers…
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My amp is a dual mono balanced bridge design. The manufacturer is very very emphatic in saying the Ground or Black terminal is not a floating ground but an active negative . Im loath to do anything other than swap the cables from bottom to top and jumpers from top to bottom. But honestly the system is sounding so amazing with the new cables I’m not inclined to change anything!
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I bet the SL jumper price is ridiculous down there………it’s ridiculous here.
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I won’t be trying to find out with the new retailers, the pricing has gone crazy.
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Over a grand here😬
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It’d be $4K here
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You’re negative top and bottom should be swapped round for the diagonal wiring to work best. 
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I experimented once with a big pair of B&Ws I had in briefly. I tried with the included metal strips against just using some hook up wire (RS56); I found them to sound way more “together” with the RS56 hook up links wires in place. The difference was extraordinary and far from subtle.
I’m not sure speaker manufacturers necessarily design their speakers to work best with biwire terminals. Some provide them in order to offer the option of active biamping, which is a different proposition altogether. I’m pretty sure others use them just to cater for the fad of using biwire cables, which is, of course, best avoided with Naim amps.
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That’s a nice job seakayaker, neat & secure, i.e. nothing to work loose.
My speaker ends are much the same, Chord Odyssey soldered to Deltron large bucket banana pins. The wire thru the first banana is continuous, bent double into the solder bucket.
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I am very happy my Harbeths only come with one set of binding posts! No need to play around with jumpers like on my former speakers.
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Similar to seakayaker but yours on the positive side should be swapped for diagonal wiring.
Hope you get better results.
I’ve swapped all the permutations, many times, over many years.
It’s good as it is
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I just swiped the negative top and bottom and will see if I can pick up any change to the sound.
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Dumb question of the day … what would be the effect of positive to top, negative to bottom, but no jumpers or links? Silence? or … Bang?
Silence
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Inky black silence with a low noise floor though.
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