Speaker jumpers

I realise it’s a bit tricky for distance but of the two options top or bottom I’d say the top is the closest compromise and the bottom most tidy for aesthetics.
You’ve got to try KS - 1 :thinking: :+1:t2:
Lots of converts from SL

I don’t know what happened to them, Jim. There was a demo set on top of the boxes before they left Cymbiosis, but for some reason didn’t make it here. Alternatively they might have been in the van, but both Peter and I forgot about them on the day - there was quite a lot of other stuff going on at the time, like K-Rad 2 upgrade and new interconnects.

Indeed Clive I know what it’s like.
I did see somewhere “ and was surprised “ that someone with a set of SL cables wondered what was inside the Black Blocks and it turned out at one of the ends it’s just a spacer and the other end had an electronic component shorted across the two wires.
I’m assuming it was the outer sheath but nevertheless looked very nasty.
It’s just a single screw to seperate. :wink:

Funny, I’ve changed my setup to the nr3 setting and I can really hear a difference. Never thought it would be. Before I used the HF from the amplifier and jumpers to the LF. Nice free tweak!

1 Like

These arrived today and are set up:

7 Likes

Nice jumpers.

But I must admit that those binding posts do look perilously close together.

DG…

3 Likes

Yes, that was an unexpected challenge, and there is really only one precise orientation to avoid the spades touching each other. Still, it’s all set up nicely now. I previously had some short lengths of NACA5 between the binding posts, and that was a real challenge to get in using long nosed pliers.

Nice one - the holy grail of SL - pound for pound the most expensive piece of Naim kit.

Many a time I have been tempted (at the right price) - luckily new PMC’s only have one set of binding posts.

Enjoy.

1 Like

I’d slip a small piece of flexible plastic material down between the binding posts just to ensure (although unlikely) that a binding post nut doesn’t loosen off and cause one of the spades to touch the other and short the output of the amp.

4 Likes

I luckily found a used set, new is out of my comfort zone.

1 Like

Like the wiring HF + & LF -
The closeness of the connectors are very worrying.
I notice the spades have trim markers on them I think if it were me I’d be cutting them back a couple of lines to avoid a possible short. :scream:
The most important grip of the spade would not be compromised as the heel of the spade is the high contact point.

3 Likes

Oh my goodness, the combination of those big spade/fork connectors and that terminal spacing is an accident waiting to happen, if one becomes a bit loose, they could short out the channel. The amps may well be protected but I wouldn’t want to rely on it!

2 Likes

I’d be tempted to trim the overhanging part of the spade connector
Would give me peace of mind
But that’s just me :thinking:

1 Like

or just put a piece of heatshrink /electrical tape on the exposed forks

I think they changed to that when tge Twentyfive series was introduced, however the higher series, Fact and SE, do have multiple binding posts. In the SE series at least, the internal crossover is easily removed, the triple terminals then facilitating conversion to active tri-amping, which I always understood was a deliberate option.

1 Like

Looks like I have a little project this afternoon folks. Thanks all for the feedback.

3 Likes

All fixed and sounding lovely. I’ve gone for a foam divider, not happy to cut up the spade tips. Hopefully all good now.



6 Likes

Great idea and nice photography!

1 Like

Give us an update in a few days if you found adding the foam reduced the noice level and enhanced your listening experience!

2 Likes

Hah! The foam was reassuringly free, so there can’t be any audio benefit.

1 Like