Forgot to ask - since when is the Pots 8 included - is there a defined serial number?
That might require some deep digging!
I’ll see what I can find.
Regards
Neil.
Sorry - found it…
Yes - I’ve just managed to find some PCB data from 97.
To be honest - I have no idea what POTs8 means - something to do with the motors powering vol and balance?
The early revisions used an integrated circuit to drive the pots & the later ones used discrete components to do the same job as well as a more intelligent design that allowed the entire drive circuit to sleep when not in use. There is little difference between rev 7 & 8 other than the omission of an opto-isolator that became superfluous due to the redesign.
Regards
Neil.
Thanks - this is a reasonable improvement in my (non technical) understanding.
If there is a faulty POTs Board sometime - could this still be repaired?
My dealer told me, that the only difficult repair option are the remote circuits - so I understood. But I think he meant the motors, which are rare to get.
The pots/motors are still available - he may be referring to the logic circuits in general (the ones that control all the switching, pot drive, illumination etc.) because they are a real pig to troubleshoot & repair!
Can still be done though.
Regards
Neil.
There might be a Bit downside with the 52.
It has been stored for approximativ 1,5 years.
I think it will Need a massive run in/burn in Period.
Hoping that Storage had Not done any bad effects.
There he is again - mr. Glass half empty…
Now positive and looking forward:)
Just give the volume & balance knobs a good few rotations from end to end before setting it up, I’m sure a couple of years storage won’t have too many bad effects.
Unless it was stored somewhere silly, like under water.
Only joking!
Thanks so much
Fine advice- moving Parts … There are Not so many of Thema in a preamp
Rotation End to end - will do it by Hand First. After that via Motor
Hi Neil
What’s the software update for Flash compatibility?
Jim
Sorry - one more question coming up.
Should I also go for the „matching“ supercap from the seller. It is from the same year. Matching serials.
Not for matching green, but for technical reasons. Is it necessary to keep the pairs together?
My supercap was recapped in 2018 - another supercap in 2020. the 2018 one is from 1995 like my dead 52.
Thanks
PS: I will try it in a separate thread - did not find a matching thread. Maybe it is interesting for others as well
Here:
It just allows scrolling through the inputs with the up and down keys. The flash will still work otherwise, as long as the 52 is an RC5 version.
Regards
Neil.
When this is the topic from my remote not working with the 52, it refers to the R-com. My R-com does not work with input skipping.
Now I do have a real nerdy question … I know that this is one of my best
@NeilS and @all
Does it harm the NAC52 when it is in transit from warm Italy via plane to Germany. I do not know what is the temperature in a freight room of the plane, but I think it will not be freezing.
Can answer it myself. If this will do any harm, naim components are limited to a very very small distribution radius.
The main issue you need to avoid at all costs is when you get a very cold piece of equipment delivered into a warm house. This can encourage condensation inside with potentially calamitous results. You should allow it to reach room temperature before plugging in and switching on. It’s mostly an issue during winter though.
THANKS - I have dealt with it in the past.
I remember very good, how long the time gets, when the new piece of equipment is in its temp. adaptation period
As the front of the new 52 is abut dirty (seen on pix) I want to clean it first.
I always do that when new items arrive. Cleaning from outside is easy.
I really would like to give a look inside. From my lost screw situation last year I know how to open it.
Any suggestions, on what tend inside cleaning - aka removing dust is possible anyway.
Maybe I should let it closed….