Well, you have almost 3 of them, it would especially beneficial for you.
I’ve good experience buying from Germany. I was looking for SBL’s back in the day and I looked on the site you mention - guess what - 20 km away from where I was in Luxembourg a mint set of SBL’s. Dropped an email, used my school German and bought them.
I’m a true SBL convert ever since.
Looking to complete it with a CDS in the future.
Some day we all should go for Naim-convention 
Yes - I was tempted buying a third one. But I do have the perfect technician(s) working on both my faulty ones. And I do not know what’s with the third one…
It is always a risk, when you have no chance to drive by. Still looking for SBL MK2 too… or SL2 or Kudos 606… But first I need a pre…
I am true SBL convert since 1990!
Hi,
both NAC 52 in service for repair.
The 1995 52 (with one channel dead) is on its way. During service the loose screws are also fixed (see here)
It also came up, that the crews of the main board are a bit loose. Not a complete loose board, which you can hear wobbling, when shaking the box. But loose as coming more loose during transport.
@NeilS
Come these loose main board screws on purpose with the 52. I remember the NDAC to have a board, which is a bit shaky - but I do not remember that there are screws that do not need to be fixed.
I assume, that the screws from the main board of the 52 need to be fixed - but without force and with good sense of proportion.
One further thing - sorry:
I also gave the black Burndy to service, as the isolation went off a little bit on both sides, showing the coloured cables underneath. It still works fine - only looking a bit strange and being a bit more twistable. Had a new Burndy recently for superfine and it was tight and stable on both plug sides.
Shoud it be fixed (think it is easily done) or is it better to leave as it is - for SQ reasons. I remember that a Burndy should hang free and when easily twistable there is less “strain” to it.
If the inner cables are showing on a Burndy then it should be fixed. Best is when the strain relief is just tight enough to allow a little bit of movement when you twist the plug against the cable - i.e. not overly tight, but not too loose either.
Thanks a lot Richard! Seen some of older Burndy’s like that - seems to be some kind of symptom coming with age.
Can this be easily fixed - maybe by yourself?
I’ve never had to fix it myself. Knowing how it can affect performance I’d want it fixed properly I think.
All of the screws in the 52 should be tight, there are no floating fixings. Important to not overtighten the main PCB screws as the brass inserts will rotate inside the nylon pillars.
Always best to get Burndy cables fixed if the heatshrink band splits at the plug, there is a black wire soldered to the outer shielding braid which is liable to break once the integrity has been compromised.
Regards
NS.
Thanks a lot - think/hope this is no big deal, as there are some screws at the plug. No soldering I hope. Should be done during service. I a way too afraid to touch anything
But this is fault number 3 from the second 52 (together with bad motor pot and no 2speed)… if it rains … it… but after rain, there is always sun … someday 
And only because of the bad 52 situation, I bought the wonderful muso 2 (so much in love) and a … coming next in chrome bumper thread 
Update…
My first 52 (with one channel dead) is in final test run.
There has been a dead capacitor (and transistor) in the right channel layout. Also I had it arranged, that a full recapping service is done - YESS. And it was also cleaned extensively plus screws
I have been told, that I do not have to be afraid of sounding it a bit “different” at first - as there is serious burn in, when all the stuff is replaced.
Read about it here also.
How long do you think it will last till it flies - or should I be stunned from the beginning? Because of recapping?
As my 135 has been also offline for 3 weeks plus SC from prefix… There will be some time to let it warm and burn
According to Darran at Class A a couple of weeks of playing music should have it on song nicely. I had both my 82 and 102 serviced by Darran and he wasn’t wrong.
IME it will all sound great from the off and gradually get better.
Thanks - I will hear the difference. I also notice the sound from the start and after 1h music play to be different
Would you suggest to let some music on (low) volume - Night and day?
Or Listen to music and enjoy?
@NeilS
Hi Neil
Just had a phone call from naim.
The 52 with bad motor has been looked at. There is a bad motor and it can be fixed easily.
But for the double speed POT…
There is no spare POTs 8 available now, due to long transit times these days. For this reason, a complete fix is not possible today. For today the Motor-POT can be replaced and eventually a resistor applied in order to slow down the motor to a usable speed. Sounds fine to me - for the moment.
Now my question
Is it confirmed, that the 2 motor speed regulation is fixed, when POTS8 is completely replaced?
Sometimes some programmed ICs are mentioned, sitting behind the front plate, which are some kind of “heart” of the 52 and are hard to get/repair.
If POTS 8 is doing 2Speed - it makes sense to wait. If not 
… I have to decide, if I could live with the quick fix.
THANKS a lot - as ever!
So… have I got this right…? @drago - You have two NAC52’s in for repair, with Naim Germany…?
One they can fix, 100% - now. But the other is problematic…?
Ok, so why not get the easy one done & returned - and let the other one wait until a POTS8 board is available…? Or am I missing something…?
That is the question I am waiting for - the most logic one You are not missing anything.
I really like to have the newer one (as it has newer look, the LED lights are all fine, it hat the option on board to change inputs via R-Com, it is cleaner and has the latest updates inside).
The older one was fixed, but this has also not been an easy way to go. Will see, when I have it back.
For this reason, I have not yet decided, which one to keep. (both currently in repair)
Both are re-capped now, which makes it more difficult to choose.
But the main reason is!
For the newer one the seller gave me the option to decide, what to do. Even to return in total. He is one of the nicest guys I ever met in naim purchase history.
And for this reason I would like to stay tuned on the newer one as well and keep him informed about options, the timescale and the costs.
Whew… Glad I am not (yet) totally losing it… 
So… its the newer one which is tricky to get fixed - with POTS8…?
the newer one is the POTS8 candidate… thanks for your support in thinking it trough
Yes, the motor speed is controlled by a regulator on the POTS PCB. When it receives the signal from the logic PCB, the regulator wakes up at around 4 volts & ramps up to 7.5 volts if the button is held for long enough.
If the reg is waking at 7.5 volts, the fault will be on the POTS board (usually a single failed transistor).
Regards
Neil.
THANKS NEIL!
This gives me some kind of hope! Too bad, that naim germany has no spare parts (initially he thought, that this are available).
He did a quick fix, with some sort of reducing the motor speed via some kind of trimmer. But I do not know, if this will be a permanent solution and will be slow enough. Have not picked it up.
So bad that the spare parts have such long transit (with customs) these days … I very much hoped, that I will get it back as new. From the insides it is perfect - really want it.
Don’t know, if there is any chance to speed it up - sending the parts. I have no experience in post Brexit transit.
Drago, out of respect to NeilS who provides great assistance here posting on his own time, please stick to the usual channels re. requests for parts etc… as these are not under his control. Thanks.