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Late last year I added a second Supercap DR, with the Burndy and HiLine cables needed to power my SuperLine. I had an extra shelf and glass to cobble together a full Fraim level, from Fraimlite parts. Today I got some parts I needed to put the Fraimlite back together. I like using Fraimlite shelves to cover the top of my full Fraim stacks. I just donāt like having the top of an expensive Naim box uncovered and open to accidental damage.
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Thank you. Very good advice - it can be difficult to get things āon loanā here, but I think you have sold me. Most reviews are very positive - except every headphone seems to have a facet that each individual reviewer seems to latch onto, which makes them a very personal choice I guess!
May I ask how you connect the streamer to the headphone amp?
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can I ask which cable you are using?
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A pair of B&W DM302s for my simple studio system with a rega P2 and a TEAC A-H300.
For those who love shoeboxes:
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Gotta love TEAC engineering.
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One of my brothers in law loves the little Teac kit. I think he has the full H500 set. Thereās even a Minidisc player for which he scours eBay for old and rare pre-recorded Minidiscs to play on it.
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A few days on auditioning the 250DR vs my 200.
The sonic presentation from the 250DR is so different from a 200 that it required a reset and recalibration of my ears to fully grasp and appreciate whatās going on. A lotā¦ wow.
As I already mentioned, the gain in low-end extension, power and detail is what grabs you first and is simply astonishing. Itās like my SF Guarneriās received an extra pair of woofers. Drums, bass and percussion have a realism and impact I never heard before from these speakers. Itās mind blowing to hear a kick-drum or bass with this heft and weight flowing so effortlessly from the compact SFs.
At first, the 250s midrange and treble seemed almost recessed but itās not. Itās the 200 that sounds forward, almost shouty, by comparison. Emphasised (or partly caused by) the leaner low-end. The 250 renders clearly more detail and layering throughout the spectrum. A wider and deeper stage with almost palpable space around the musicians on better recordings, if that makes sense. Everything sounds effortless, more real and more grown up. And by quite a large margin.
For me, the 250DR turns out to lift my entire system to the next level. I really wasnāt expecting it to be this much of a jump. Letās see how this develops further.
There might be some coffees at my dealer coming up. 
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I went from a 200 to a 250DR and found it a huge jump, thereās no going back. Good luck.
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The little amp is really well built, and has a decent phono stage. I would have loved a Nait but this costed me much lessā¦ I needed a small footprint, it had to fit inside a piece of furniture. It probably needs some servicing, but itās worth the expense I think.
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Well last night there were some funny things going on when I was having a little listening session - some strange green lights - couldnāt really tell properly - but when I took another photo this morning low and behold my DAC-V1 has grown into a BIG DAC - and V1 is upstairs again!!!
Oh my I am a lucky and even happier little bunny!!! 
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Ordered some Witch Hat Phantom speaker cable today as an upgrade to the existing N2 cable. Hopefully as much of an uplift as everybody says it is. If not it can go back.
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I connected the headphone amp to the rca output on the 272 and just turned the volume down on the 272 when listening to the HA.
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That could almost be my description of the jump from a 250DR to a 300DR.
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Hi Chris,
For my main cable to my Isotek mains sub, Furutech FP-3TS762 Mains Power Cable I have some Furutech FP-TCS21 PC-tripleC Power Cable coming for some of the other mains leads. Will possibly pop some pics on when I make them up.
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762 is great for this use but oh my, chunky! Takes a while to wire it into the plugs nicely, but worth the effort ime
Spending some time at the gym before I start ā¦ā¦
My first purchase this year. A digital stylus vtf gauge. Up until now Iāve used a shure seesaw type gauge. I like that you can calibrate the Vertere gauge with a 20g weight that comes supplied. I donāt know if this usually the case with other digital gauges.
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Thanks for that, Iāll keep an interested eye out for your progress as Iāve been weighing up a similar project myself, good luck with the wrestling!
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Iād suggest a 20g is a bit on the big side!
I guess it sets the zero as error zero and the span as 20g. With the assumption that in between is linear. But it might not be. I.e. 10g may not be 10g. The only way to cal would be to go up in say 1g increments and confirm it matches. But who knows what youād do if it doesnāt.
But have fun with it anyway.
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