I wasn’t sure whether they made a difference or not. They certainly didn’t make it worse, but I wasn’t convinced they made it better. They also looked very silly from the side.
I therefore sold them. I paid £60 for them, sold them for £80 and gave the £20 to Water Aid.
The tool is predominantly known as Cannon Plug Pliers for Avionics/Mechanics Engineers. However there are variations i.e. Waterslip Joint Pliers etc. I have seen various sizes over the years, but usually the standard size will suffice. The main point being the jaws of the tool are fitted with a soft insert. Obviously, no good tightening or releasing the connector, if we manage to damage it. The inserts are usually made of plastic, which can vary in how hard the insert is.
The main problem with the Naim Burndy cables, is the initial release or final locking of the connector. The increased resistance, due to the 3 locking pins on fitted unit connector. This is where this tool comes into its own. It is only needed for the initial and final locking/unlocking process, the rest being performed by fingers. As long as care is take no damage is done to the connector or thumbs and fingers. @Richard.Dane@110dB
Really surprised if you do not have these or something similar tool in the factory. I suspect there have been some vey sore Naim employees, thumbs and fingers over the years, in the factory or at HiFi shows.
The tool above, is to be used on military grade connectors. These connectors make Naim look very reasonably priced. The tool you are referring is Waterpump Slip Relief Pliers. These can also be used, with care. Any tool can cause damage, if you do not use it with care.
I have 2 such as these, the difference is the inserted softer bit and it makes no difference to the enormous crushing grip it produces before you know it, but it’s your Naim!
Having belatedly realised that I had a Toslink connection from my Sony DVD player to my Azur 851n, and being quite encouraged by the apparent improvement compared to using the analogue RCA outputs, I thought I would investigate using the SP-dif output.
Fortunately, Analogue Seduction were having a NOS clearout, so enter …
I listened to a couple of CDs last evening and must was quite surprised not only at the difference between Toslink and SP-dif, but also how capable the CD playing ability of the DVD player is compared to my Sony CDP555ES (connected via Chord Shawline to the 851n). Bit of a result for £66.
I used some thin rubber sheet to get a better grip and, although the connectors are rock solid, I cannot get them to rotate far enough to lock up.
And before anyone says it, the notion of having to return a £17k hifi system to the dealer and or Naim for “adjustment” is quite frankly ridiculous - more TVR than BMW levels of fit and finish .
They’re not going to fall off, so I’m going to leave well alone.
As for using plumbers grips on the back of hifi installed in a rack - you know I can see all sorts of ways that won’t end well……
I have the same issue with one of my Burndies. Actually everything seems to work fine, but reading this little exchange has made me wonder whether I should make the effort to get that satisfying click when the whole thing locks as intended. Of course, the fear of breaking something is the rather large deterrent. Actually the pliers @NoNaim suggested have got me thinking, if I use them gently
When I was at the dealer this Summer auditioning the 222/250. The dealer had the 300 connected to the 222. I asked to hear the 222 bare, but he was unable to remove the burndys.
So I had to listen to the 3 box system only and then order the 222 and 250.
This doesn’t sound the best that the burndy connections are so difficult to use.
Look maybe I’m not explaining the use of Cannon Plug Pliers well. The tool was designed removal and installation of Cannon connectors, which are very similar to the connectors used for Burndy cables.
It is usually the first or last eighth of a turn, where significant resistance to hand turning is met.
The idea is to grip the the tool round the connector, to make a firm grip, not crushing. It is not to be subjected to the grip levels achievable by Steve Austin. Due to the length of the tool, better grip of the connector, more twisting torque is supplied to the connector, than achievable by most people. The soft plastic/rubber tool inserts (whatever material is used), protect the connector from being marked or scored. All the tool is used for is for the initial or final eighth of a turn, of the connector. I hope this helps people.
Decided to try an aftermarket power cable.
There was a Isotek Evo3 Sequel cable on sale so I ordered it for my Atom HE.
It’s burning in so I‘ll wait until the holidays before comparing it to the Poweline Lite.
Thanks @NoNaim, yes it does. I’d say it would be even less than an eighth of a turn for me and just feels that it’s the final click into place that’s missing.
Had a play with the WiiM Pro Plus and I’m seriously impressed. It weighs nothing and you might wonder what you are paying for but connect it up and WOW! The app is excellent and setup was a doddle. I A/Bed it with the Linn which is not really fair but it did hold up well considering the price. The Linn was better in all aspects of reproduction as you would expect considering the price difference!
Apple AirPlay was not lossless unlike the Linn (check the Darko video on this if you want to know how to check). Chromecast and all the streaming services are available. And radio stations are easy to find with popular one already there.
This is a no-brainer as a start into streaming. What is on offer here is great considering the cost (£220).