Show us your Sondek

Yes, there are four (from memory) different stylus shapes, all interchangeable and replaceable. The cost is £600 (again, from memory).

This is a newly announced cartridge, not readily available in the UK yet.

I was scratching around looking for a cartridge for the MM input of the NAIT 50, and this was Peter’s strong recommendation.

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That cartridge has been around since 2017
The new one is a modified TriG B metal body conversion still to be released.
It has the Linn 3 point mount on it hence Trig.
They do two point mount conversions called Rig B.
Not available yet. :+1:t2:

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We are putting an Ortofon 2M Bronze on the LP12 that is currently being built for Mrs QS’ system.
I was going to go for a new GR1042, but Graham at Basically Sound (who is doing the build) uses the Ortofon on his own LP12 apparently and has highly recommended it :crossed_fingers:t3:

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That’s a great cartridge and could be upgraded to 2m black at a later date with a replacement stylus. I believe the bronze and black share the same body as do the red and blue.

Generally speaking, what do you think is better for vinyl wear MM or MC carts ? Many years ago on my Sondek i always had MC s like Asaka, Troika and Arkiv. Now i have P3 + Exact. i’m planning to return with a medium spec LP12 with MM, right into Nait50, or Stageline into 200

Makes no difference if properly set stylus pressure and antiskate.
MM have higher mass body because the generator coils are in there.
MC lower mass usually as no big generator coils inside.
People will argue because the generators in the MM might make more noise and internally modulate but it wouldn’t stop me going MM if I wanted to.

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Thank you!

The ML is a more advanced stylus shape and a better tracker, it will last longer too and it costs a lot less than the SLC. If you check online you’ll consistently hear from from both reviewers and forum dwellers (people who have actually tested both without a conflict of interest) that the ML is the way to go. I wouldn’t wait for TrigB either, RigB is good enough and it’s adjustable, the three point mount assumes that everything is perfectly aligned, like if tolerances in manufacturing didn’t exist.

Quick comment as I’m on holiday. It’s a very nice solid metal body upgrade costing about £200 for existing AT 500 and 700 series MM cartridges. I auditioned on an ARO using the styli from the 540 and 760 before sending it up to the guys at Loud and Clear for their evaluation. - They loved it too.

Worth waiting for? IMHO yes. Can’t say more due to moderation rules

KR
Peter

Ha ha same here. I have a different plinth and Kandid, otherwise only lid is from my 1987 original LP12. Wife kind of noticed some changes :wink:

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I think that all that is left on the LP12 that I bought from Howard Popeck, of Subjective Audio on Camden High Street, are the hinges for the lid. And they don’t work very well - the lid can only be either fully open or closed.

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…but isn’t that the only 2 positions they should ever be in @anon70766008 :thinking: :wink:

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Three if off the deck entirely, lol.

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I thought that it was said to be best not to have the lid fully open, as this promotes microphony - which may or may not be true.

I can’t play LPs with the lid down, as the finger-lift on the ARO headshell fouls against the lid. I’m hoping that Peter Swain can fix this, when he visits with a brand new LP12 for my NAIT50-based second system.

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That would be position 2 for me.
Closed or Off, that’s it…:grin:

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Yes, he will bend the finger lift. Simple.

I’m sure that it’s easy, but I don’t dare do it myself!

(I’m sure that I read somewhere that the armlift can be bent to affect the bias exerted on the cartridge. Or have I imagined this?)

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He will set it up correctly once the finger lift has been bent. Yes, let him do it.

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I love fixes like this. It’s like fixing a car, anyone can do it in theory, but only a pro is likely to do it without breaking something :blush:

About a year ago I noticed the arm lifting lever on my Ekos SE was loose - the screw thread it fits into had come loose.

I knew that all it probably needed was some Loctite threadlocker applying to the thread but there was no way I wanted to do that. Freephone Peter Swain……he fixed it in a jiffy and all good. I always think even the small jobs that seem “easy” are worth entrusting to a professional. The chances of me creating an unforeseen problem would have been high.

PS…… I’ve heard it said that the arm lifting lever on the Ekos is actually a Rega part!... Is that correct?

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