What’s Your Best ‘Tweak’?

Built 2 power cables with Neotech 3002 and some cheap but better than ordinary plugs. Gave a nice lift in transparency (perhaps at the expense of the overall balance). Will upgrade to Furutech plugs as well.
Went from OEM to Hatpin 4x (won on thebay for peanuts) as the interconnect between the 272 and the 250dr. Sounds a bit better.

I’d have to say, my best tweak was an entire learning curve when I bought the specific speaker stands recommended by ATC for the SCM19’s - Atacama HMS2.1.

When I first installed them after sanding the pillars, I experienced a shocking disappointment. Compared to the previous arrangement (Quadraspire stands) the system suddenly sounded dire! So bad, in fact, that I resorted to replacing my NAP250DR with my old NAP200. Minimal improvement ensued, but I’d lost my NAIM hifi experience. I almost felt bereaved.

Then, as luck would have it, I read that 1: SCM19’s work best away from the room corners and 2: bass is improved by placing the speakers directly on to the surface of the stand top plate. I then placed everything on sets of spike shoes.

By that time, the SQ had improved noticeably but I still hadn’t achieved the effortless performance I craved, So I reinstated the 250. Just to see…

Joy of joys, all is now well.

I think the lesson here is, especially for those occasions when an upgrade doesn’t seem to be delivering the expected goods, check the basics! It was a valuable lesson… best equipment support tweaks and appropriate speaker placements are essential.

Happy days.

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I’m a big tweaked. When i’m not tweaking i read about you guys tweaking. I can’t get enough.

I’ve mentioned on here before that altho not a fan of the snake oil, mirrors & smoke approach to hifi tweaking I’m willing to accept that by & large it does work on Naim gear. FF to last weekend, Wickes [can we mention them? Other DIY type outlets exist] were knocking out foam pipe lagging at 80p for a yard or so’s length.

Back home and the long awaited but often forgotten job of cable tidying & separation is done at last. And I’m amazed at what it’s done, just by keeping cables apart and off the floor. Much improved focus, tighter bass, all in all just that bit nicer again much like when the Powerlines went in.

As cost effective tweaks go, that was 80p well spent. The receipt’s in the bin.

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I think this is a tweak subject… cable dressing. Often mentioned but I don’t think I’ve seen any definitive guidelines.
Are there any?
We have signal interconnects, power lines, burndy’s, speaker cables and in my setup I certainly can’t keep everything from everything else.
Is there advice that says definitely do/don’t do this, this doesn’t really matter etc?

Would appreciate some clear advice on this.
For info I have NDS/555DR, superlumina to SN2 with HiCap DR, superlumina speaker cables and power lines throughout.
Digital source is Melco with Vodka network cable.

So fair number of cables around!

Cheers
Steve

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There’s a thread here: Cable Dressing

I kept it simple and used short lengths of lagging to create a distance between cables that would otherwise make contact with each other when hanging down behind the rack, and to lift cables clear of the wooden floor. It looks a bit neater too.

Brilliant thanks. Thought there might be but wasn’t sure where to look

Adding a sbooster to my melco N100, by far the biggest improvement i have experienced in my naim hifi adventures over 30 years. Goes to show how crap the standard melco power adaptor is, or designed to be to hold the newer design N100 back, so not to upset the more expensive old models???

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Isotek Optimum powerchords for my SN2, ND5 XS and nDac.
Melco N1 replacing Synology Server.
Absorber Panels in my living / listening room.
Using absorber feets (Bfly Audio “Pure”) under all Naim components and also the Melco - the equipment is placed on a hutter rack.

What length are they?

Phil

The Isotek powerchord are two meters long.

:small_blue_diamond:A GOOD INSTALLATION of the music-system

That means more than all the “tweaks” together.

/Peder🙂

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If it’s a tweak rather than upgrade purchase, then I can’t split it between my purpose made mains block connected directly to the 10mm t&e from the cu and the concrete pillars I built to support my speakers and hifi racks to eliminate a suspended floor.

I made the mistake of buying 1m, which were good with a lesser system. The stiffness is also problem with a shorter length. Did you try PowerLines?

Phil

No I did not try PowerLines, and I followed a recommendation of my local dealer, but not without testing them at home :slight_smile: Also, I use an Isotek Aquarius unit since a longer time so I thought it would be more consistent to use Isotek cables.

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Best tweak?
Replacing the stock PSU supplied with Rega RP6 with newer NEO PSU. The result was amazing.

Not bad for about £200. At the time, thought this was a really good value tweak (upgrade).

For what it’s worth - having conducted A/B listening with same on the Planar 6, concluded the NEO offered majority of the difference to the newer model.

(Comparison of Ania - RP6 & Planar 6 - Aria - Naim XS2)

Great system, I’ve almost the same (but NDX2/XPS DR) and the full loom S/L puts it on an entirely different level. I have challenges with cable dressing to due to a living room setup. I’ve tried to cover the basics: S/L I/C free and not touching other cables, furniture etc, same with the Burndy. Speaker cables and source cables clear of power cables. I apply an 80% of perfectionism principle :sunglasses:

And speaker plugs and connectors, iec, amp speaker terminals(very fiddly), speaker spades and terminals basically everything thats copper or silver.

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Mike. Thanks, yes once stabilised the SL chain gives a big improvement (for me). Are the interconnects and Burndys the main bits to focus on? Due to space I can optimise those but the power cables and speaker cables tend to be close.

Apparently, I’ve managed to have them clear of anything else.

I think close but not touching is the idea, and crossing at 90 degrees if they cross. I use foam cutouts from packaging to keep one speaker cable clear of an adjacent power cable. I use a power strip and run the power cables under the TV cabinet where I can, which helps. But it’s very much a “do the best you can” for my system as it’s in our lounge and has to fit in with family living.